Arctic Journey Brings the Effects of Climate Change Closer to Home

Kayak Trip Among Glaciers Shows Dangers of Nature’s Change

Impakter.com
B The Change

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The Monacobreen glacier is among several in the Arctic showing signs of melting. (Photo by FutureTalks/Subtractive Inc./Ryan Stuit)

By Maria Daniela

It’s not necessary to be a climatologist to acknowledge that climate change is real. Nowhere is it more noticeable than in the Arctic, where temperatures have risen at two times the global average. A quick online search is enough to find numerous scientific articles and other official documents from nations, the private and public sectors, and nonprofit organizations about the effects of climate change in melting glaciers and wildlife in the Arctic. So why does this continue to feel as if it were happening on another planet?

Part of the reason is that the Arctic is far from where most of us live. Thus, “the Arctic” gets labeled as this remote place that few people understand and few people inhabit. Sometimes, unfortunately, facts and photos are not enough to get a point across, much less to instigate action. But other times, stories help. So I will try to do my part. This is not a post about mere scientific facts (because you can look those up) but about what we need to understand to begin to care. Because only if we care enough will we act or demand action.

In August 2018, I was part of an Arctic expedition with FutureTalks. About 100 people from several nationalities, ages, and backgrounds came together to create meaningful discussions in a place where we would be undisturbed and inspired by everything and everyone around us. This happened in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Circle, in the Arctic Ocean, about 1,000 kilometers from the North Pole. Its capital, Longyearbyen, is the northernmost town on Earth.

To help you locate it geographically, picture Greenland’s northernmost region, move east, and stop between mainland Norway and the North Pole. And yes, people live here: Svalbard has a population of about 2,000 people, 3,000 polar bears and other unique wildlife, like the Arctic fox. A little farther north from Longyearbyen is Ny-Alseund, the northernmost (non-militarized, permanent) settlement in the world, which has research stations from 10 countries and a population of about 35 people year-round and 120 during the summer.

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Ny-Alesund, the northernmost settlement on Earth, that serves as a base for international research and environmental monitoring. (Photo by FutureTalks/Subtractive Inc./Ryan Stuit)

The Polar Basics

Before heading to Svalbard, I was researching information about the high Arctic, because I too was confused about a few basic facts. It is easy to mix things up with Antarctica, even though they are literally opposite poles. The Arctic, as the northernmost region on Earth, creates a circle around the North Pole, which is the northernmost point on Earth. While both terms refer to different things and are not interchangeable, one contains the other. The same is true for the Antarctic Circle and the South Pole.

The Arctic essentially experiences one sunrise and one sunset per year, which bring about six months of sunlight (and the midnight sun) and six months of darkness (the cold polar night, which is also when the Northern Lights can be seen). The average temperature in August is about 5°C and in February is -15°C. Eight countries have territories in the Arctic (in land and/or in water), but the Arctic Ocean accounts for most of this region, which during much of the year is covered in sea ice. It’s like a puzzle with several moving pieces.

On the other side, Antarctica, also known as the “White Continent,” is an ice-covered landmass surrounded by the Southern Ocean. Although 25 countries have permanent research stations here, they do not own the land.

A map of the Arctic. (Image from U.S. Department of State)

Melting Ice: A Spectacular Threat

One of my favorite memories from the FutureTalks Arctic expedition is kayaking next to Monaco glacier (or Monacobreen). We arrived at the fiord, Liefdefjorden, in the morning and had been soaking in the breathtaking scenery since then. There were around 40 spots available, and the plan was to take turns between 4 p.m. and 10 p.m. As the crew prepared the kayaks, we put on warm suits and took the five single and three two-person kayaks.

Kayaking next to Monacobreen and Seligerbreen. (Photo by FutureTalks/Jan Khur and Julie Hrncirova)

The water seemed clear and calm. However, the crew constantly reminded us to “stay away from the ice!” After a few minutes, the small icebergs that appeared to be far from us suddenly were fast approaching and became ubiquitous around us, in what seemed like low wind conditions. Someone got stuck in the ice and had to be pulled out by speedboat, but we all continued kayaking, now more careful than before.

Eventually, as we returned to the ship, I paddled back behind two friends who were sharing a kayak. One pushed the ice away from their kayak while the other paddled forward. However, I was on my own, and the ice was moving so quickly that their path was closing behind them before I could pass by (note that I’m not a kayaking expert at all). Once I couldn’t make a turn in time, I was stranded in the opposite direction and ice was covering the path in front of me. So I was the last one out there and had to be rescued by the speedboat. Onboard the ship, the crew informed me that the rest of the kayaking had been canceled due to the amount of ice that was now surrounding us. In fact, it wasn’t even safe for the ship to stay there, so we had to evacuate the area soon after.

The speedboat helped a few kayakers return to the main ship. (Photo by FutureTalks/Jan Khur and Julie Hrncirova)

I want to highlight two points with this: First, the spot where the ship had stopped and where we were kayaking, as well as the two glaciers (Monacobreen and Seligerbreen) separated by a mountain, all used to be one large glacier. The surge of the glacier has been studied since 1991, which is when it most likely started. Between 1991 and 2016, Monacobreen has retreated more than two kilometers. Satellite images demonstrate the thinning of the glacier front and its separation from Seligerbreen, which is similar to what has happened with other shrinking glaciers in Svalbard.

Second, it is hard to fully grasp the magnitude of glaciers and icebergs. We can easily forget that we are looking at extensions of ice that are many kilometers wide and can be as tall as skyscrapers. When a “chunk” breaks off, we may not realize that these icebergs are larger than a house. And once a chunk separates, it continues moving and carrying everything along. This is just another example of the immense power of nature, one that should never be underestimated, even if at points it seems calm and harmless.

We have seen recently with multiple, stronger-than-average extreme weather events—wildfires, droughts, floods, and hurricanes/typhoons—that natural processes disrupted as a consequence of climate change can bring ecological consequences for humans and the planet. As ice continues to break off the glaciers and polar ice caps, even midsize icebergs threaten nearby villages and will cause local, regional, and global disruptions to the ecological system, such as the temperature and salinity of the oceans.

Monacobreen or Monaco glacier. (Photo by FutureTalks/Subtractive Inc./Ryan Stuit)

In a similar way that mountain glaciers are shrinking, the ice sheets in Greenland and Antarctica are destabilizing and melting more quickly. Of special concern is West Antarctica, where massive ice shelves have been detaching or collapsing in the past 20 years or so. Although melting of floating ice does not increase sea level, melting from mountain glaciers and ice sheets does.

Ice is not the only thing transformed by the effects of warmer temperatures. As water temperature increases, it expands. This is referred to as “thermal expansion,” and has caused about 50% of global sea level rise in the last 25 years. Melting glaciers and warming temperatures in both poles are the foundation of global sea-level rise, which causes coastal flooding in small island nations, like those in the southern Pacific Ocean, as well as in major metropolitan areas across the globe, from Dakha to Shanghai to New York City. Although this change is unstoppable, we can decrease the rate and gain more time to find solutions to protect people in coastal cities and small islands, perhaps giving us time to prepare for the ultimate adaptation scenario to sea-level rise: forced evacuation and migration.

The Changing Permafrost: The Floor Is Melting

While we hope to keep global warming well below 1.5°C, people in Svalbard have started experiencing a temperature increase of 5–7°C. Expedition staff told us stories about how climate change has impacted them personally, from visual changes in the glaciers to the changing permafrost and the consequent risk of landslides.

As the permafrost warms up and thaws, the infrastructure—pipelines, powerlines, and even houses and roads—that was designed for grounds with permanent below-freezing-temperatures is at risk of being damaged. The terrain may become unstable and unsafe for both humans and wildlife. A place of special interest is the Global Seed Vault—also known as the Doomsday Vault, the world’s most important freezer, a library of life, or simply the seed bank. The storage area itself is more than 100 meters inside the mountain, carved into the (solid and frozen) permafrost. The entrance can be seen from Longyearbyen’s main road. Because permafrost has a temperature of about -4°C, the storage area only needs to be cooled a few additional degrees to reach the -18°C desired mark.

Opened in 2008, the Seed Vault is protected by international laws and treaties and has collected more than a million seed samples of over 6,000 species to ensure crop diversity for future generations and to safeguard seeds from potential disasters and conflicts. However, the thawing permafrost, melting ice, and excessive rain have created unexpected consequences. In 2017, water leaked into the tunnel but did not reach the vault. It is unclear whether this could continue to happen over the years, but precautions are already on their way, including waterproofing the 100-meter tunnel at the entrance and installing pumps in case of a future flood.

I am not an expert in climatology, polar oceans, ice dynamics, or similar topics, and that is precisely why I wanted to write about this. If I can begin to understand where the Arctic is, who lives there, and what is going on up there, maybe anyone can. We need to spark interest, engage people, and create dialogues in order to make people care. Only then will we be moved to act for what is right. And we all should.

Maria Daniela is a research assistant in the department of environmental health at Boston University School of Public Health.

This article was originally published by Impakter. B the Change gathers and shares the voices from within the movement of people using business as a force for good and the community of Certified B Corporations. The opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of the nonprofit B Lab.

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